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	<title>Articles</title>
	<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html</link>
	<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 19:27:49 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>simpson character</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-drawing/simpson-character-r25</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<object style="height: 390px; width: 640px"><param name="movie" value="http://youtube.com/v/2RgPudmFV1I?version=3" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><embed src="http://youtube.com/v/2RgPudmFV1I?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="360"></embed></object>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Nov 2010 17:58:08 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Layers</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-painting-in-pastels/layers-r24</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<em class='bbc'>This tip is from Jennifer Blenkinsopp at <strong class='bbc'><a href='http://www.artwanted.com/?RID=23179&B=text/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>ArtWanted.com</a></strong>:</em><br />
<br />
<br />
<p class='citation'>Quote</p><div class="blockquote"><div class='quote'>With pastels you have to build layers. For instance, with the <strong class='bbc'><a href='http://www.artwanted.com/imageview.cfm?id=215279' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>Isle of Arran</a></strong>, the grass in the foreground only needed two layers of two different greens. I left some of the paper showing through and did not blend, in order to give a rough look. <br />
<br />
With trees, I usually start with darks, followed with light on top. Buildings are done with light strokes, with some paper showing through - and blended...<br />
<br />
All the commonly available art fixatives are much the same.  If you can get away with it, don't fix your work... If, however, you are building layer upon layer, then you will need to fix between the layers - but not the last one. I have used hair lacquer in the past too but I found that it darkened the painting more than purpose made fixatives do.<br />
 <br />
So all it is, basically, is to build layers. When you think your work is getting a bit muddy, 'fix' it. <br />
Once the fixative has dried, you can add another layer of pastel. I do not fix my final layer.</div></div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 02:10:39 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Soft pastels for painting</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-painting-in-pastels/soft-pastels-for-painting-r23</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class='citation'>Quote</p><div class="blockquote"><div class='quote'>Sometimes, I only use soft pastel - sometimes hard for the initial sketch, with soft pastels on top.<br />
I use Rembrant or Rowney pastels and Derwent pencils for mainly outlining and fine work.<br />
The pencils, though, are not strictly necessary... you can always break a tiny bit from your soft pastels for fine work.</div></div>
<br />
<br />
Although Rembrandts are generally classed as soft pastels - I'd put them at the very hard end of "soft." <br />
However, when you look at the extremely high standard of Jennifer Blenkinsopp's work, you can tell that they obviously work for her!<br />
<br />
Personally, I much prefer Schmingke and Senellier soft pastels. These are in a different class of softness - a bit like comparing glass with butter!!!<br />
<br />
I can't find either Schmingke of Senellier pastels in the Philippines, so I buy them every chance I get when I am abroad.<br />
Otherwise, I order these very soft pastels online from Blick Art Materials - and have them delivered by FedEx. <br />
<em class='bbc'>(Dick Blick's prices are very reasonable but I find that I get stung by the customs on delivery...)</em>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 02:08:53 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Different types of pastel</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-painting-in-pastels/different-types-of-pastel-r21</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<em class='bbc'>This tip is from Jennifer Blenkinsopp at <strong class='bbc'><a href='http://www.artwanted.com/?RID=23179&B=text/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>ArtWanted.com</a></strong>:</em><br />
<br />
<p class='citation'>Quote</p><div class="blockquote"><div class='quote'>Sometimes, I only use soft pastel - sometimes hard, with soft on top.<br />
I use Rembrant or Rowney soft pastels and Derwent pencils for mainly outlining  and fine work. <br />
The pencils, though, are not strictly necessary... you can always break a tiny bit from your soft pastels for fine work.</div></div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 02:00:19 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Studying the past masters</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-painting-in-pastels/studying-the-past-masters-r20</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<em class='bbc'>This tip is from Jennifer Blenkinsopp at <strong class='bbc'><a href='http://www.artwanted.com/?RID=23179&B=text/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>ArtWanted.com</a></strong>:</em><br />
<br />
<p class='citation'>Quote</p><div class="blockquote"><div class='quote'>I learned a lot by copying the work of <strong class='bbc'><a href='http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%3Furl%3Dsearch-alias%253Dstripbooks%26field-keywords%3DDegas%26x%3D15%26y%3D23&tag=artfreakscom-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>Degas.</a></strong></div></div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:58:39 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Fixatives</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-painting-in-pastels/fixatives-r19</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have had countless problems with pastel fixatives and I have totally ruined many a good painting by using too much of the stuff.<br />
<br />
The first solution here is to use as little as you can get away with - and never fix your final layer. Just be very careful with the painting until you can get it framed behind glass...<br />
<br />
However, if like me - <em class='bbc'>(and as suggested in another tip by Jennifer Blenkinsopp)</em> - you like to work in layers; you will definitely not be able to completely avoid using pastel fixatives.<br />
<br />
My advise here is to simply go for the very highest quality product that you can lay your hands on... For one thing, the price of a very high quality pastel fixative will put you off using too much of it!! And you will stand much less chance of getting any very undesirable "frosting" effects if you do accidentally use too much.<br />
<br />
My fixative of choice is the one made for pastels by Senellier. <em class='bbc'>(Senellier also do a very similar fixative which has been formulated especially for charcoal drawings. I find that it also works very well with pastels but it does seem to be a bit lighter - and so you really need to use more of it when working with pastels...)</em><br />
<br />
I can not get hold of Senellier fixative in the Philippines but I find that the museum grade varnish, satin, produced by "Golden" suites my purposes quite well. The only real problem that I have with the Golden varnish is that it takes quite a while to dry. <br />
But then again, that usually gives me a good excuse to go out for a beer! <img src='http://www.artfreaks.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/drinks.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':drinks:' /><br />
<br />
I buy my Golden varnish at Diovir's in Santa Cruz, Manila<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>I wouldn't touch any of the other so-called fixatives that you can buy in National Bookstore, with a bargepole!!</strong>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:57:07 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Choosing a paper for pastels</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-painting-in-pastels/choosing-a-paper-for-pastels-r18</link>
		<description><![CDATA[My first choice for a pastel paper would have to be any decent hand-made watercolor paper<br />
<br />
A very close second and, in some ways, also my first choice is Waterford Watercolor, Rough<br />
<br />
After that; anything with plenty of tooth and strong enough to withstand some scraping and a lot of water and fixatives. (I tend to make a watercolor wash using  pastels and a wet paint brush to create my initial background colors, layout and color scheme... after that, I always go over the top with fixatives - except in the final layer where I never use them)<br />
<br />
Canson Me Tientes is great when I want to really force myself to go easy on the application of pastel and try to keep to a more traditional style of pastel painting with at least a bit of the original paper color showing through...]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:55:26 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Pastel papers -</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-painting-in-pastels/pastel-papers-r17</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<em class='bbc'>This tip is from Jennifer Blenkinsopp at <strong class='bbc'><a href='http://www.artwanted.com/?RID=23179&B=text/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>ArtWanted.com</a></strong>:</em><br />
<br />
<br />
<p class='citation'>Quote</p><div class="blockquote"><div class='quote'>I have just tried papyrus paper for the first time. It's not bad. <br />
I've also tried watercolor paper but the best is Downer Rowney pastel paper, in my opinion.</div></div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:52:51 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>HOW I STARTED PAINTING</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-how-to-paint/how-i-started-painting-r16</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<strong class='bbc'>The following tip is from Belgian artist, <a href='http://www.absolutearts.com/portfolios/p/pledent/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>Pol Ledant</a>:</strong><br />
<br />
<p class='citation'>Quote</p><div class="blockquote"><div class='quote'>At the age of Forty I decided to leave the business life I was leading and I tried doing some watercolors. <br />
<br />
First I copied many paintings, because you have to learn different techniques.<br />
<br />
I soon understand that I would be limited, if I didn't learn to draw. So I took drawing lessons.<br />
 <br />
After that, one of the best-known painters in Belgium, who lives nearby, advised me to paint with oil. I looked at him painting for hours and what I mostly learned is <strong class='bbc'>"don't be afraid to put color on to the white canvas you have before your eyes. You'll run all those colors later."</strong><br />
<br />
The most important thing is to acquire you personal way of painting, people have to recognize you without being obliged to look at your signature. <br />
From that moment on, you'll start selling your paintings.<br />
<br />
Best wishes to everybody</div></div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:44:32 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Getting started</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-how-to-paint/getting-started-r15</link>
		<description><![CDATA[It's probably a good idea to at least get some confidence in drawing before you try to start painting. <br />
<br />
The great news is that, as proved by 'Yours Truly', anyone can draw!! <br />
<br />
I didn't actually realize this until I read <strong class='bbc'><a href='http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=Drawing+on+the+Right+Side+of+the+Brain&x=11&y=19' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>The New Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain</a></strong> by Betty Edwards. If you can get hold of a copy and work through the book, I can virtually guarantee that it will give you the confidence to get you started - and you'll be amazed at your own results!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:42:22 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Artist Tip on Painting Shadows</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-how-to-paint/artist-tip-on-painting-shadows-r14</link>
		<description><![CDATA[In an early morning painting on the famous Charles Bridge in Prague, Czech Republic, the shadows are made up of warm colors. Artist, Rod Cameron, offers this insight into the color temperature that he used in the painting, and gives artists a good rule of thumb when selecting colors for shadows.<br />
<br />
At sunrise and sunset, the color of the light is changing very quickly. For even very ambitious plein air painters who manage to set up their easels at the crack of dawn, it's nearly impossible to finish the painting and capture the lighting effects on the landscape before it changes. And it's hard to remember exactly how it looked when you got the inspiration for your creation. <br />
<br />
<span rel='lightbox'><img src='http://www.artfreaks.com/forums/uploads/1264441430/gallery_1887_141_31466.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></span><br />
<br />
Rod Cameron, travels with other artists all the way from his home on the Big Island in Hawaii to central Europe and the Czech and Slovak Republics, to paint in Prague. Knowing how to handle the shadows in certain colored light can be very helpful when painting en plein air, and the time and the light is moving too fast.   <br />
<br />
Rod Cameron tells his students, "The magical light of Prague this early in the morning had a cool predominate cast, which brings the shadows to the warmer hues of the palate. Cool light equals warm shadows, or warm light gives cool shadows. This is the general rule." <br />
<br />
Even experienced plein air painting artists can benefit from this little reminder, especially when it's early, and you're in the moment. You want to capture the look and feel of cool, early morning, before the sun is up, and a few good rules of thumb can help take the guesswork out!<br />
<br />
"The incredible buildings of the city create an interesting sky line across the horizon and I used the tall statue on the left, which had a natural gaze into the scene and the focal points of the painting," said Rod Cameron while describing his painting titled, Charles Bridge. This Rod Cameron painting of the Charles bridge in Prague can be found on the web. <br />
<br />
Go ahead! Travel halfway around the world. Get up at the crack of dawn, and capture in your paintings the beautiful places that you travel to with confidence! The light may be changing too quickly, but the architecture, skylines and statues aren't. Create great value and color harmony with complimentary colors, then nudge the color in the shadows either warm or cool. Notice that it gives your shadows a "real presence" .  Painting Tip, Plein Air Painting in Europe, Expert advise on Painting, Painting Shadows, Painting workshop, Rod Cameron Art,]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:26:09 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Painting Outdoors on a Full Pallet Field Day</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-how-to-paint/painting-outdoors-on-a-full-pallet-field-day-r13</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<span style='font-size: 14px;'><strong class='bbc'>Painting Outdoors on a Full Pallet Field Day</strong><br />
<em class='bbc'>by Margaret Stanton<br />
</em></span><br />
<span style='font-family: Arial'><span style='font-size: 10px;'>An artist, inspired to paint the Gothic and Florentine architecture outdoors in Prague, must choose between an almost limitless range of subtle colors to use.  In this medieval city, there are cooler hued buildings of stone with grayed lavenders, greens and blue browns. There are also warmer toned surfaces with ochre, yellows and oranges. Add to this an eclectic, no-rules range of color on many of the building's newly renovated surfaces, and you have a genuine, full palate field day!  An artist needs to decide how to achieve color harmony in the shapes and nuances depicting these historic treasures if their next best painting is going to be a success. <br />
<br />
<span rel='lightbox'><img src='http://www.artfreaks.com/forums/uploads/1264441430/gallery_1887_141_23852.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></span><br />
<br />
Rod Cameron reveals the secrets behind his choices of color in the painting titled, "St. Michelos Cathedral - Prague".  Notice how he breaks down color into groups of "warm" and "cool".<br />
<br />
He tells students, "I saw the two towers in the sun as "warmer" mixtures: the thinner, taller steeple a mixture of cerulean blue and burnt sienna with white, and the main domed building a mixture of yellow ochre and burnt sienna with white."<br />
<br />
Using these warm hues as a reference point, Cameron uses a split complementary, which indicated blues, lavenders with touches of viridian green for the shadows and in the street buildings on either side. These cooler shadow colors frame the scene and provide exact compliments to the warm Hues of the Cathedral in the sunlight.<br />
<br />
To further enhance the warm atmosphere in the sunny part of this painting, the artist mixed cerulean blue into the sky. Cerulean blue, being the "warmer blue", supported the warm, sunny part of the composition and harmonized with the cerulean mixtures in the architecture.<br />
<br />
To see how easy it is to find and select complementary, split complementary and other color combinations, Rod Cameron suggests to artists to make or get a hold of a simple color wheel, found at any art supplier, and just dial up a color. In the case of Rod Cameron's painting of St. Michelos in Prague, he pointed to orange on the color wheel as his initial reference point, for the sunny surfaces of the Cathedral. The compliment of orange is ultramarine blue, but Cameron chooses the split complimentary; the colors that you find on either side of blue. The color wheel beautifully illustrates, lavenders on one side, and blues with a touch of viridian green on the other side; the split complimentary colors that Rod Cameron uses in the painting. <br />
<br />
Touches of your warm mixtures in your cool colors, and visa versa, will slightly gray things down, and go further to create great color harmony in your painting. The use of split complementary colors adds a greater range of color and more variety in your painting without sacrificing harmony. <br />
<br />
Color wheels are inexpensive and give the artist a better understanding of the color families and how they relate to each other. Even after you've memorized all the color combinations, it still fun to refer to now and then, plus, the wheel just looks cool hanging on the wall. Every studio should have one!<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.margaretstanton.com/praguepaintingworkshopinfo.html' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>Prague Art Escape</a></span></span>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:19:50 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Upside-down drawing</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-drawing/upside-down-drawing-r12</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<span style='color: #FF0000'><span style='font-size: 14px;'><strong class='bbc'>Tips on drawing:</strong></span></span><br />
<br />
<em class='bbc'>This tip was the number one lesson that I learned from <strong class='bbc'><a href='http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%3Furl%3Dsearch-alias%253Dstripbooks%26field-keywords%3DDrawing%2Bon%2Bthe%2BRight%2BSide%2Bof%2Bthe%2BBrain%26x%3D11%26y%3D19&tag=artfreakscom-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>The New Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain</a></strong> by Betty Edwards</em><br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>If you want to make a drawing from a photograph, just turn the photo upside-down and then copy exactly what you see.</strong><br />
<br />
Try it. This sounds really stupid but it actually works!<br />
<br />
The idea here is to confuse the left (rational) side of your brain and prevent it from taking-over your drawing process and making you draw things as the symbols that it sees in. If you leave the drawing or photograph the right way up, the left side of your brain will dive in there and say <em class='bbc'>"Ah! An eye! I know what an eye looks like...!"</em> and then you end up drawing an eye or a face or whatever as you think it should look - rather than the way that it actually looks...<br />
<br />
There is really nothing very difficult about drawing. Almost anyone with a functioning hand and reasonable eyesight, fingers, paper and a pencil can do it! No special fingers are needed - ordinary ones will do just fine!!!!! And the only skill you need to master is the ability to condition your mind into drawing what is there and not the symbols that the left side of your brain rationalizes in.<br />
<br />
Just go ahead and give it a try... You'll be amazed at the results! Once you have done this a few times and you start to build your confidence, you'll find that you are able to just copy exactly what you see - (rather than what the left side of your brain <em class='bbc'>thinks</em> you are seeing.) Once you have conditioned yourself in this way, you will find that you no longer need to turn your subject upside down...]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:06:21 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title><![CDATA[Drawing "white space"]]></title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-artists/tips-on-drawing/drawing-white-space-r11</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<em class='bbc'>This is another really useful trick that I learned from <strong class='bbc'><a href='http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%3Furl%3Dsearch-alias%253Dstripbooks%26field-keywords%3DDrawing%2Bon%2Bthe%2BRight%2BSide%2Bof%2Bthe%2BBrain%26x%3D11%26y%3D19&tag=artfreakscom-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>The New Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain</a></strong></em> by Betty Edwards<br />
<br />
Tip: Instead of drawing, for example, a man's arm with his hand resting on his hip - look at the space <em class='bbc'>between</em> his arm and his body. <br />
Do not look at his arm and do not look at his body.<br />
Look only at the space in between his arm and his body... Then draw draw that <em class='bbc'>space!</em><br />
<br />
The same thing applies to drawing the outside edge of the man's arm... <br />
Look at the nearest object to his arm and draw the <em class='bbc'>space</em> between that object and the man's arm!<br />
<br />
<em class='bbc'>That way, you overcome the tendency of the left-side of your brain to make you draw things in the simplified symbol images with which that part of your brain rationalizes the world around you. Then, having overcome this annoying tendency of the left-side of your brain to continually butt-in and interfere with your art - (which is, essentially, a job for the right-side of the brain) - you end up easily being able to draw what is actually there - rather than what the left-side of your brain would very much like you to draw...!!</em>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:01:04 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>How to photograph art</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-photographers/photographing-artwork/how-to-photograph-art-r10</link>
		<description><![CDATA[It took years for me to learn some very basic stuff about photographing my art.  Today's point and shoots digital camera's are so much better, but be careful, there are some very special features that you really have got to have in order to shoot oil paintings.  One feature that will allow you to get about 95% glare out of the print!  Using a CPL filter, circular polarizing lens.  <br />
<br />
More info here on how to get the lens for your camera, or at least what to look for on the camera to see if you can even add it!<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.easy-oil-painting-techniques.org/which-digital-camera.html' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>What features to look for in a digital camera</a><br />
<br />
and more info on actually shooting the work.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.easy-oil-painting-techniques.org/photography-lessons.html' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>Shooting your own work the easy way!</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 00:42:04 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Photographing my artwork</title>
		<link>http://www.artfreaks.com/index.php/articles.html/_/top-tips-for-photographers/photographing-artwork/photographing-my-artwork-r9</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<strong class='bbc'>From former member, nicbrun77:</strong><br />
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<p class='citation'>Quote</p><div class="blockquote"><div class='quote'>I have never seemed to get the hang of photographing my art, oil paintings and charcoal sketches. I posted my first painting a couple days ago, but the photo I took looks like crap and really doesn't do my painting the justice it deserves! How in the world do I take a really good photo of my work? I realize that the photo is never as good as seeing it in person, but it seems like the photos of everyone else's work on this site and on artwanted.com are so professional looking. What am I doing wrong?</div></div>
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I can only say what works for me...<br />
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I have only tried pencil drawings and pastel paintings so far. <br />
The pastels, I always photograph before framing behind glass. (In the case of an oil painting, I would photograph the thing before applying any vanish?)<br />
I always take the photographs outdoors - in a bright spot but out of direct sunlight.<br />
I make sure that the flash is turned off and I am not casting a shadow on the painting.<br />
If there is enough, well diffused light, I don't think you need a tripod - just try to hold the camera reasonably steady while you press the shutter.<br />
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The cameras that most people are using these days all have auto-focus...<br />
If you are using auto-focus, usually you have to depress the shutter half way, keep it like that for a second or two, in order to allow the focusing mechanism to do its thing - and THEN press the shutter all the way.<br />
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Lastly, before taking the shot, I make sure that the camera is positioned exactly on the axis of the center of the painting and not skewed at an angle.<br />
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Oh! And then you really need to use any simple photo editing software, just to crop your image before uploading. It also helps if you can reduce your image file size to about 350Kb or less, so that it doesn't take for ever to upload.<em class='bbc'> (I use U-lead Photo Explorer - both for cropping and reducing the image size. Mine came with the camera  - but I believe if you do a search on Google, you can down-load U-Lead Photo Explorer for free?)</em><br />
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'Hope this helps! <img src='http://www.artfreaks.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 00:35:12 +0000</pubDate>
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