With pastels you have to build layers. For instance, with the Isle of Arran, the grass in the foreground only needed two layers of two different greens. I left some of the paper showing through and did not blend, in order to give a rough look.

With trees, I usually start with darks, followed with light on top. Buildings are done with light strokes, with some paper showing through - and blended...

All the commonly available art fixatives are much the same. If you can get away with it, don't fix your work... If, however, you are building layer upon layer, then you will need to fix between the layers - but not the last one. I have used hair lacquer in the past too but I found that it darkened the painting more than purpose made fixatives do.

So all it is, basically, is to build layers. When you think your work is getting a bit muddy, 'fix' it.
Once the fixative has dried, you can add another layer of pastel. I do not fix my final layer.

Sometimes, I only use soft pastel - sometimes hard for the initial sketch, with soft pastels on top.
I use Rembrant or Rowney pastels and Derwent pencils for mainly outlining and fine work.
The pencils, though, are not strictly necessary... you can always break a tiny bit from your soft pastels for fine work.

Sometimes, I only use soft pastel - sometimes hard, with soft on top.
I use Rembrant or Rowney soft pastels and Derwent pencils for mainly outlining and fine work.
The pencils, though, are not strictly necessary... you can always break a tiny bit from your soft pastels for fine work.

I learned a lot by copying the work of Degas.

I have just tried papyrus paper for the first time. It's not bad.
I've also tried watercolor paper but the best is Downer Rowney pastel paper, in my opinion.